Archive for the ‘Soups’ Category

Nearly two weeks after Thanksgiving, and we are still eating leftovers.  Turkey sandwiches and quesadillas, french onion soup, breakfast fried mashed potatoes, stuffing frittatas, lasagna, and even a pan of turkey enchiladas.  When it comes to repurposing leftovers, we rule!  Our fridge is finally emptying out and very little has been wasted.

I splurged on a 20-quart stockpot for Thanksgiving this year.  It was a big purchase…  it’s only a cheap-o Target pot, but with cabinet space at a premium, I am still not sure where to store this monster.  No regrets, however, as a 20-quart pot meant nearly as much post-holiday turkey stock.  The old laying hen we brought home from our farm day joined it’s compatriot’s carcass, and I have enough stock to last a very long while.  It is well worth the small up front effort to have homemade stock on hand.

And where there is stock, there is soup.

Leftover Squash Soup

This technique works for any amount or type of leftover mashed veg (root vegetables or squashes in particular) and is merely an exercise in heating things up.  But there are a few basic things to consider for those new to cooking.

Put the squash in a saucepan, breaking it up with a spatula so it is not just a big Tupperware shaped lump.  Liberally season with your choice of spices.  For this go round, I used the Barbecue of the Americas spice blend from Penzeys.  It was a free sample and is a blend of salt, paprika, allspice, nutmeg, cayenne, pepper, cinnamon, thyme and ginger.  The nutmeg and allspice complement squash particularly well, it adds a rich color and a bit of heat, as well as just enough ginger for flavor without pushing it into curry territory.  *sigh* I heart Penzeys and am powerless against the crack like pleasure of Penzeys free samples.

Add enough stock to nearly cover the squash and start reheating, stirring occasionally to incorporate the liquid and keep the bottom from scorching.  A quality silicon spatula works very well for this.  Zyliss makes one which works really well.  The silicon stretches up much of the handle, which is great when you accidentally leave the spatula sitting in the pot between stirs.  (Not that I ever do that…  no…  not me…)

I sliced and toasted some garlic bread from the Gracie Baking Co.  I found a ramekin of goat cheese remnants at the back of the fridge.  Some stray baby spinach was located as well.  Sides were officially done.

Turning attention back to the soup, it had bubbled away during homework negotiations and was now more like babyfood than soup.  No problem, just add more stock until it is just shy of the preferred consistency.

Then turn off the burner before adding the dairy.  In this case I used Straus Whole Milk Plain Yogurt, but cream, half and half, or sour cream would work well too.  Fresh dairy can take a little heat and vigorous stirring, but fermented dairy products can curdle quickly if they are left to boil at this point.  Their proteins have already started to coagulate from the fermentation process and are simply more delicate.  So I just play it safe and turn off the burner before stirring in the yogurt at the end.  Another option is adding the dollop of yogurt or sour cream individually and letting The Child stir it in herself.

Notice there isn’t a measurement of any ingredient through any of this.  This is leftover squash soup.  You start with what’s leftover, you add liquid until it looks right, and then you serve it.  We polished off the squash, the last of the yogurt, some goat cheese, and spinach before any of it went bad.  I love that feeling of rescuing food just before it’s about to go south.  Plus, the entire loaf of bread is now sliced and in the fridge, making garlic toast with eggs much easier next morning before school.

The Child turned her goat-cheesed garlic toast and salad into a spinach sandwich and proceeded to dunk it into her mug (punning about squashing it into the little cup of squash soup).  Then she asked for seconds on everything, even the spinach, and double-checked I didn’t skimp on refilling the soup.

I love it when a meal comes together.


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Thanksgiving is the most important holiday of the year for our little family.  The Spouse and I each have a long history of preparing feasts open to any and all friends in need of a cozy place to go.  Long before we dated, we were friends on opposite ends of the state consulting each other on menus, recipes, and cooking methods.  Once engaged, and finally in the same city, Vagabond Turkey Day was born.  For ten years, it has been about opening our home to an array of interesting people and watching them all connect.  Nothing fussy or fancy, just old friends and new sharing food, drink, games, and conversation well into the evening and often through the next day as well.

Day Two has, in fact, become an event unto itself.  Traditionally, the stock simmers all night while stragglers stay playing games through the wee hours of the morning.  As guests raid the fridge, bones are added to the bubbling cauldron on the stove.  Then on Friday, we make Jacques Pépin’s recipe for French Onion Soup (from his book The Apprentice).  Typically a few folks crash for the night, and a few decide to return the next day.

We added experimental doughnuts to the mix this year.  It was quite a draw.  Throughout Friday we had a constant full house.  French Onion Soup quickly became a ‘deconstructed’ stockpot of stock and onions while getting a few friends to pot luck lasagna and salad.  We were low on savory items, but were overrun with desserts.  The onslaught of sweetness muscled in on counter space – squeezing out most of the traditional game play.  But we will have to rejigger and perfect our strategy in years to come because the doughnuts were an unmitigated success.

There will be doughnuts again.

Oh yes, there will be doughnuts again.

The Spouse attempted these once before, after watching Chris Cosentino recommend Dynamo Donuts on an episode of The Best Thing I Ever Ate.  The Second Try was better still, and The Spouse has already posted the recipe.  But they were so good they merit repeating here.

The Child punted on helping out this time.  There were friends over with bikes and games outside.  So her dad brought out a fresh plate of warm doughnuts for all the kids.

Best.  Dad.  Evar.

Maple-Glazed, Apple Bacon Doughnuts – The Second Try

(Adapted from Alton Brown’s Yeast Doughnuts)

For the doughnuts
•    1 1/4 cup milk
•    2 tablespoons apple juice
•    2.5 oz shortening
•    2 packages instant yeast
•    1/3 cup warm water
•    2 eggs
•    1/4 cup sugar
•    1 1/2 teaspoons salt
•    1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
•    23 oz all purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
•    2 medium apples (gala or fuji)
•    1 lb bacon
•    1/2 – 1 gallons peanut oil

For the glaze
•    3 cups powdered sugar
•    4 tablespoons of maple syrup
•    2 tablespoons of vanilla extract

(Will make approximately 50 doughnuts)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place bacon a rack inside a foil-lined half sheet pan. Cook bacon for 15-20 minutes, until crisp. Reserve rendered bacon fat. When bacon has cooled a bit, dice bacon and split in half.
Warm milk in sauce pan until hot enough to melt shortening. Pour milk over shortening and stir until combined.
Place yeast in warm water for 5 minutes.

Peel and finely dice apples. Place 1 tablespoon of reserved bacon fat into a frying pan and saute apples over medium heat. Keep diced apples moving constantly until they give up some liquid and pick up a hint of color, about 5 minutes. Remove apples and any remaining bacon fat from pan and add to milk/shortening mixture along with 1 tablespoon of reserved bacon fat.

Lightly beat eggs.

Combine water/yeast, apple juice, eggs, nutmeg, milk/shortening/apple mixture, nutmeg, sugar, salt, half the bacon, and half the flower in the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment. Mix on slow speed until flour is incorporated, then increase speed to medium. When well mixed, stop mixer and add remaining flour. Again, slowly increase speed until well mixed. It will be very sticky.

Switch to dough hook and mix on medium until dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and forms a shiny ball.

Move the sticky, elastic dough to a bowl and allow it to rise for one hour, until it has doubled in size.

Dump dough out onto well floured surface. Flour your hand and gently flatten dough until 3/4″ thick. Flour a 2″ and 1″ biscuit cutter. Carefully cut out 2″ disks and move to wax paper, the use the smaller cutter to cut out the holes. When done, cover with more wax paper and allow to rise for another 30 minutes.

In a heavy stock pot, add enough peanut oil to fill to 2-3″ deep and heat to 365 degrees.

Prepare the glaze by whisking together the powdered sugar, maple syrup, vanilla, and 6 tablespoons of reserved bacon fat.

Working in batches of 4-6 doughnuts, fry doughnuts until golden brown and delicious on both sides, about 1 minute per side, using chop sticks to gently flip the doughnuts. When done, transfer to cooling rack and let cool for about a minute before dipping in glaze. Return to cooling rack and sprinkle with bacon from the other half you reserved.

(This works best with two people, one frying, one glazing.)

The most difficult bit will be giving the glaze about 5 minutes to set up. Doughnuts will still be warm and delicious!

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Apparently my plan to get through a week without The Spouse is to compensate via over-scheduling.  I have not stopped zipping from one thing to the next since he left.  Volunteering at the kid’s school, errands, and keeping ‘just behind enough’ on the housekeeping so as not be on a disturbing reality show.  Just barely.

I can’t complain.  It is all fun stuff this week.  Today The Child had a half day of school, so we went to the park with friends all afternoon.  The weather was glorious!  The reality of to-do lists could wait another day while we took in some well enjoyed park time.

The day does go a bit smoother when I have thought of “what’s for dinner” in advance of actual dinner time.  Lucky for me, today I had the plastic tub-o-leftovers.  It had been waiting for the fetching of appropriate condiments for optimum enjoyment.

Borscht is good.  But borscht with a dollop of sour cream is awesome.  And The Spouse’s freestyle Goat Borscht with Radish Greens is an out-of-this-world bowlful of pink win!

So there was no cooking this evening.  There was merely zapping in the microwave.  And there was standing in front of the machine quoting Homer Simpson, “D’oh! Isn’t there anything faster than a microwave?”  A few slices of garlic bread and two glasses of milk later, and we were done.

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Shopping at the local Northwoods grocery store is a bit challenging.  We get local items when we can, but when it comes to most things that is not an option.  Our area is historically trapping, logging, and mining country, not farming country.  The growing season is too short, and the soil quality is poor.  Most quality-raised food has to travel much farther than we are used to in California.  Sometimes shopping here is about choosing the least of several processed evils.  This is after all, a part of the world where it is socially acceptable to buy and serve Velveeta.

For the summer we cook like we’re camping.  We try to make careful choices while remembering that, sometimes, food is just fuel.  And without a dishwasher, one-pot meals with off the shelf ingredients have distinct advantages.
Since this cabin is typically occupied by someone in the family throughout the year, the cupboard and freezer are often filled with groceries other people have purchased.  The kind of food men buy on a fishing trip.

But no amount of Michael Pollan-esque food guilt can allow me to waste food.  I may not make the same purchasing decisions, but when the might-as-well-be-generic brand of canned peas (yes, canned peas…  shudder) are taking up space in the pantry, they ought really be eaten up.

The nice thing was that I had both bacon and a ham steak from the meat purveyor at the local farmer’s market.  I had bought a chicken from him as well and roasted it earlier in the week, so I had homemade chicken stock in my arsenal too.

Futility Farms sends a nice guy with a truck full of freezers each Thursday to sell their grass-fed beef.  Thanks to their neighbors raising animals with similar philosophical bent, there are also conscientiously-raised chicken, pork, and lamb.  The meat comes all the way from Gilman, Wisconsin.

I remembered my father mentioning my grandmother’s recipe for my favorite pea soup is made with canned peas.  And although that soup is beef based with drop dumplings, I decided to freestyle with some pork products, chicken stock, and my forsaken canned peas.

Finished in less than 30 minutes, it was fabulously cozy on a stormy, grey evening.  The Child had seconds, and requested leftovers the next day.  Like all pea soups, this one gets better each day in the fridge.

She wondered why we’d never made this before.  Good question, honey.  Turns out we will be putting canned peas on our pantry staples shopping list from now on.  Cheers to not wasting food and taking a chance.

Canned Pea Soup

1 ham steak, diced
1-2 rashers bacon, chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
3 cans, canned peas, drained and rinsed
Homemade chicken stock
Pepper to taste

Saute the onion, bacon, and ham.  No extra oil or salt is necessary to saute as the pork bits provide sufficient fat and flavor.  When the onions are cooked through and beginning to brown on the bottom of the sauce pan, add the drained and rinsed peas.  Stir to combine and add chicken stock to cover.

Stir occasionally while the soup heats through. Some of the peas will break up on their own, and I suppose some folks might like to take a potato masher to it at this point, but we liked leaving our peas intact.

Served dinner for two, leftovers for a day or two, plus half the batch in the freezer for a rainy day.

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Thanksgiving is a big deal for our family.  Celebrating is typically a three day affair, and the day after is officially French Onion Soup Day.  The carcass goes directly into a stockpot and bubbles away overnight while late night game-playing stretches into the wee hours of the morning.  Last November,  we roasted an extra dozen drumsticks in the oven in addition to the bird out on the grill.  Additional bones would just get added to the bubbling cauldron as guests steadily raided the fridge and consumed leftovers.  A visiting friend remarked, “Some people compost…  you make stock.”  Nothing goes to waste in this house.

Recently The Spouse went back to working some longer hours.  For a month or two, we shall revert to the old days of increased travel for him, and increased single parenting for me.  Back injury be damned, I am going to have to scrape together a meal or two and get in the habit of cooking again, so I practiced a little last week.

The Spouse had roasted a guineafowl earlier in the week, and as is our custom, filled up the stockpot with the carcass, fading veggies to help clear out the fridge, some peppercorns, and a bay leaf or two.  Whether you start with leftover bones, or some cheap cuts from the butcher, the basic technique is the same:  start with cold water, bring it up to a simmer slowly, and skim the scum off the top as it reaches a gentle boil.  Let it bubble away for a few hours, cool, strain, and transfer to the freezer or fridge.  A spare plastic container in the fridge can collect bits from the kitchen throughout the week to save for stock, and a weekend day serves as an excellent time to make a big batch.  In the fridge, all the fat will collect in a solidified layer on top which may be easily removed or used as you prefer.  You’ll know you got it right when it comes out of the fridge set up like gelatin.  If it’s still a liquid, don’t fret, you have likely made a very flavorful broth.  But for stock to be stock, it needs the connective tissue that only bones can provide.

The first night dinner was my responsibility, I actually planned ahead.  With seemingly nothing in the fridge for lunch I boiled half a package of farro, established we had at least one carrot which would not be rubbery by dinner time, checked the volume of meat The Spouse had picked from the carcass was sufficient for three bowls of soup, and confirmed we had a bag of frozen peas.  While I had a scoop of farro with microwaved marinara for lunch, I knew soup for dinner was all set to assemble.

I remember big giant pots of soup as a kid.  Often my dad would freeze a bunch to thaw for quick supper on a cold day, but sometimes we would be having soup all week.  It was great the first two nights, but by the end of the week we were all poking around the fridge seeking alternative leftovers.  I think that’s why to this day I prefer drop dumplings to noodles in my chicken soup (the noodles are all mushy by the end of the week), and why I have never been compelled to make split pea soup at home, even though my Grandma’s recipe is fabulous.  Instead of freezing soup or eating leftover soup all week, we are more likely to freeze the stock if need be and only prepare small batches of soup at a time.

My first night re-entering the Mom’s-responsible-for-dinner world, I failed and overdid it during the day.  But at least I could greet The Spouse with a game plan when he walked in the door to no dinner and a wife laying on the couch.  So a chopped carrot was sauteed with some onion in a medium saucepan.  Stock was poured in on top of the veg.  When brought to a simmer, some frozen peas were added, the burner switched off, and The Child called to dinner within a few minutes of starting.  Leftover ginueafowl and cooked farro were portioned into individual bowls and the hot broth and vegetables were poured over top.  Served with some fresh sliced garlic bread to dip and Parmesan grated over top, it was a perfect spring meal.  Obviously this works for the more typical roasted chicken as well, but the key is to not boil the already roasted bits of bird all over again.  No one likes stringy bits of tough or flavorless meat floating around in their soup – no matter how flavorful the broth.

The next night I was flying without a net, as he was out of town and not just working late.  To be honest, I considered having the same sort of soup again, but winced knowing The Child would whine at repetition just like I used to.  I considered using up the last of my sweet potatoes for soup too, but it seemed too warm and springy outside for such a hearty main course.  So instead I went pseudo-Asian.  The bag of frozen wontons from Trader Joe’s said, “Boil your favorite vegetable or chicken broth, add FROZEN wontons to soup for the last 1 -2 minutes.”  Really?  I can do that!

“Hey kid!  Do you want frozen peas or frozen edamame in your soup tonight?”  Giving a kid a say in what is for dinner does not have to mean sacrificing variety for the sake of a box of mac ‘n’ cheese.  Back with she was little, this question might have gotten a negative response to both options.  “It’s very simple.  You pick, or I will pick for you.”  The Child would never abdicate the ability to have a say, and it was then more likely she would try it with less protest.

We often use canning jars in lieu of plastic containers in the refrigerator, running the lids and rings through the dishwasher until the lids look like they need replacing. A simple funnel helps pour the goods into the jars.

Easy Wonton Soup

In the time it took me to heat a jar of our homemade stock on the stove, the ginger was grated and the scallions chopped.  A smidge of miso and a splash each of soy sauce and mirin were added to each individual bowl.

When the stock came to a boil, I added wontons, set the timer for 2 minutes, and scarfed a titch of boiling stock to dissolve the miso paste in each bowl.  Dividing the ginger, scallions, and a handful of frozen Trader Joe’s Soycutash directly from the bag, each bowl was then topped off with boiling stock and wontons.

Dinner was great!  And I’m happy to report that it was exactly 15 minutes from opening the freezer and finding the wontons to sitting down to dinner – – including the time it took me to take a few photos.

While The Child scarfed dinner and posed for a photo I asked her for the first time why she thinks she eats so well.  She paused, wonton poised in her chopsticks over her bowl, and said, “Cuz you guys make me try stuff and cuz Daddy cooks so well.”

“Hey, isn’t this soup good?  I made this!”

She shrugged, “Yeah, it’s awesome.  But it’s because Daddy roasted such a tasty bird.”

She’s got me there.

Invest in making your own stock.  It will pull together even store-bought ingredients into something quick and tasty.  Make small batches or individual bowls of soup to avoid repetition with your kids.  And then ask them targeted questions about what choose to have in it.  With any luck they may even even try it.

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The last two weeks have been jetlag, and headcolds, and broken dishwasher, oh my!!  The last thing I felt like doing was cooking and making a mess of the kitchen.  Times like these I tend to throw together what I can with what I’ve got.  Sweet potatoes and carrots are both on my standard weekly order from spud!, and I usually have some homemade stock.

This is more of a technique and less of a recipe.  Sauté veggies and seasonings in a pan, cover with homemade stock, and purée.  That is pretty much it.  But the concoction evolved from the months of baby food mush into a more developed and complex set of flavors, and it has consequently became a new tradition of comfort food at our house.

I love this recipe because it was something that The Child could eat early on.  As an infant, she always gravitated to food more when it was  spooned into all of our bowls.  In those early months of mush, this preparation became a foundation for introducing new foods for allergy screening without isolating that particular food like it’s some big production.  We know she loves sweet potato purée?  Let’s sauté it with onions first, and then purée.  Next week let’s add a little garlic, or ginger, or carrots, or *gasp* cayenne.  That’s right… We used some pretty powerful spices in small increments early on.  But that’s another post.  As the repertoire of new cleared foods grew, we could introduce foods in their own right without the added pressure of hovering over her looking for an allergic reaction at the same time.  This technique separated the “does she like it” from the “is she allergic” question, which may have cut down on mealtime drama or stress from the outset.  Although, that may simply be the benefit of hindsight.

These are the ingredients used recently. The organic sweet potatoes were tiny, so I used them all. Use about half the ginger shown unless you like ginger as a primary flavor.

I attempted recently to document the preparation.  The results are different every time since the ratio of overflow veggies is always different.  Use quality homemade stock, and you cannot go wrong.  When it comes time to purée there are several options, but I prefer the food processor, at least when my dishwasher is functioning.  The broken appliance meant resorting to a potato masher this week.  It certainly was not visually refined, but the flavors were great and my family didn’t mind the stew-like texture.  Garnish with plain yogurt or sour cream, or sprinkle a handful of fresh cut herbs.  Leftovers typically go fast in our house, and back in the day the purée was frozen into ice cube trays for easy baby meals to come.

This sized chop worked well for the potato masher, but when using a food processer 1" - 2" chunks shorten prep time.

Sweet Potato and Carrot Soup

Large onion, rough chopped
2-3 Large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed
3-4 Carrots, peeled and cut into similar size lengths
Leftover white wine
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Penzeys Turkish Seasoning (flake salt, cumin, garlic, half-sharp paprika, black pepper, Turkish oregano, sumac, cilantro)
Homemade stock

1)  Heat oil in a saucepan over medium to medium high – enough heat to get a sizzle when sautéing the onions.
2)  Add carrots and sweet potatoes.  Season liberally with Penzeys Turkish Seasoning and stir.  When things start to caramelize, deglaze with a little white wine (or water) to get any brown bits up off the bottom of the pot.
3)  Add enough stock to nearly cover veggies.  Turn heat down to a simmer, cover, and cook until sweet potatoes and carrots are just fork tender.
4)  Taste for salt and add more if necessary – often I leave it out at this point and top individual servings with Parmesan or goat cheese later.  I do not add salt when doing the first sauté because the saltiness of my stock varies by batch, depending on which roast beast it came from.  There is also salt in the spice blend already.
5)  Purée in food processor, garnish individually, and serve while hot.  If you choose to purée in a blender, let it cool first or thermodynamics will not be your friend…  be careful you don’t blow the lid off!  The Spouse prefers the immersion stick blender, but I can never get it totally smooth.  Nor can I manage that thing without making a mess.  This time around with the potato masher it worked well as a stew served with basmati rice.

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Perhaps this isn’t the best time of year to plant a garden.  But look at it this way, now that the winter solstice has passed, the days can only get longer.  As a kid, on wintry Wisconsin Saturday mornings we watched Roger Swain and his Victory Garden ilk tour gardens around the world in climates more hospitable than ours.  It was somehow more cozy to dream of spring and gardens I’d plant someday.

Now I live in one of those warmer places, and do I have my garden?  Not really.  I have a rich library of books in botany, gardening, and design, but no proper garden.  Condo living means I have had to adapt childhood expectations somewhat.

I garden in pots on a balcony.  It’s not the most conducive spot.  It’s only seven by eight feet, and all supplies need to be tromped up a flight of stairs and through the living room.  There is electricity but no water source, so I schlep water from the kitchen sink.  The epoxy-coated floor is delicate and severely canted, providing good drainage, but that rules out outdoor furniture.  Besides, everything needs to be mobile to allow for homeowner’s association dictated maintenance issues.

My tiny kitchen garden in November 2009

So my balcony garden has become a collection of succulents gifted by friends, and a few edible things in pots.  Our little collection of edibles consists of some lettuce, spinach, and herbs.  The stand, originally sold with a Big Green Egg smoker, was salvaged from a neighbor’s truck bed providing The Child a valuable lesson in the lost art of dumpster diving.  The casters help optimize sunlight exposure, and the tiered plantings mean the herbs on the bottom are watered by runoff from the lettuce planted above.  Some basil and spinach are planted in smaller pots, and volunteer nasturtiums appeared shortly after plunking the basil into the pot.

I experimented this year and added watercress to the garden. I can highly recommend setting up a “water feature” like ours.  Our local vector control office provides free mosquitofish, and a simple siphon means I have my own fish emulsion to fertilize our little container garden.

The Child approaches harvesting with reverence.  And while it’s not much of a harvest, the fun of picking a few pieces of lettuce for a sandwich, or taking a scissors out to cut some chives for her morning eggs, instills an understanding of her food independent of the scale of our little operation.  Chives in particular work well.  They are simple to grow and harvest.  If you let them go to seed by mistake, their purple flowers are also edible.  And the easiest way to chop them is to use a scissors to cut them into small pieces, a great way to put The Child to work in the kitchen.

Adulterated Ramen

1 package ramen noodles

Homemade stock, any variety

Miso paste

Soy sauce

1 carrot

A few spinach leaves

Prepare the ramen noodles as directed in just enough boiling stock to cover the noodles, and throw away the flavor packet.  Put The Child to work with a carrot and a vegetable peeler peeling irregular strips.  While noodles are boiling put some miso paste and a splash of soy sauce in the bottom of two individual serving bowls.  Dissolve miso with some of the boiling stock.  Divide carrot bits between the bowls.  Send The Child out to pick a few spinach leaves.  Divide finished noodles to miso and soy.  Chiffonade spinach and divide between bowls.  (To chiffonade:  lay leaves flat on top of each other, roll the long way and make thin slices down the length of the roll.)  Top off each bowl with hot stock.

Additions of frozen gyoza, leftover steak, or fishcake slices make this a more serious meal.  The Child loves to sprinkle oomoriya shirasu furikake on top because she likes to eat the little dried fishies (a Japanese seasoning with dried sardines, seaweed, sesame seed, dried egg, salt and sugar).  Sesame seeds are an accessible alternative for kids learning to season their own food.  Now break out the chopsticks and practice slurping.

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